Panigiri: a feast under the trees

Ikaria’s traditions and culture

There are three important elements that according to the people of Ikaria make a panigiri successful: good music, good wine and good food.

At the panigiri of Aghia Marina, at Arethoussa village that we visited some days ago, we experienced the core of Ikaria’s energy; the balance between the wild and the serene, the creativity and the tradition, the vivid joy and the relaxation… An occasion for the youngest and the oldest to get together, to talk, to dance, to feast.

The Ikariotikos dance

I could tell you one million things about this island and its special blend of people: they are good looking and warm hearted, they have the most friendly look that I have ever seen and their dialect sounds like singing when they speak with their local characteristic way of talking…

All of these qualities can be felt in the local music. I just believe that the music of Ikaria is magical; it exerts such a strong impact on people. And even the hearing of the first couple of notes of each song is capable of making tens of people get together, grab each other from their shoulders and all start dancing like hypnotized, with their minds empty of thoughts and worries, as if they have transcended into being wise and eternal.

It’s a type of music that magnetizes, purifies and unites us…

And it is these magic notes that bring past and future together into one dancing step, or make a group of people dance in the same heartbeat.

The strong local red wine

Ikaria’s red wine, referred by Homer as Pramneios Oinos (Pramnian Wine), was praised since ancient times for its therapeutic qualities. Could it be one of the island’s secrets for longevity?

A couple of days ago, I took a walk into my uncle’s amazing vineyard at Arethoussa village. The sun was about to set, and the leaves had a contour of golden light; the grapevines were growing up with such care, into this serene and cool vineyard that overlooked the port of Evdilos. I felt that the peacefulness of that place is transmitted into the wine and into the people that are looking after the vines.

Then, this pure, local wine fills the glasses that are raised and clinked for a toast at one of the island’s famous feasts…

 

The herbs, the greens and the goat meat

Every time I think about the food of Ikaria I remember my grandmother Marika; She left the island very young, but she kept always close to her heart the cooking philosophy of her birthplace. I remember my grandmother sitting behind the kitchen table which was loaded with a big pile of herbs and fresh greens of different varieties; her eyes were shining with joy because she would cook for us the delicious pitarakia –fried pies filled with local fresh herbs and greens. I learned from her to love drinking a night cup of vrastiko as she called it; it was a blend of mountain tea, mint, sage, verbena and honey, all originated from her beloved island.

The kitchen of Ikaria is not at all complicated. It is all about the freshness and the purity of the local vegetables and fruits, about the homemeade goat-cheese and the good quality goat meat. During our last visit to the island, we were lucky enought to try amazing homemade cooking –even in the local taverns! Sofiko, kathoura, kopanisti, aubergines and courgette flowers, sweet watermelons and superb spoon sweets…

At the panigiri of Aghia Marina in Arethoussa, we ate the best roasted goat meat ever; Wrapped in baking paper, tender and well-seasoned. It is not easy to cook for the hundreds of visitors that come to the village for the feast; the young people of the village that volonteer for all the culinary preparations and table settings know that well; It is a tradition that go back in time and that unites them; the profound pleasor to be a part of the action, to create and to share.

After all, sharing is one of the island’s values, that like the value of freedom, equality and respect, describe well its people, that I already miss.

We would like to give special thanks to Mr. Manolis Portellos and to Mrs. Sevasti Portellou for their warm hospitality and help during our visit to the island.

words by maria alipranti

photos by christos drazos